Andong Soju

Fermentation Culture

Traditional Korean liquor-making cannot be separated from Korea's broader fermentation culture.

After all, Korea is represented by a variety of fermented foods, such as kimchi, doenjang (soybean paste), ganjang (soy sauce), and alcoholic beverages.

Just as doenjang and other fermented sauces begin from meju (fermented soybean blocks), traditional liquor starts with nuruk (a fermentation starter made from wheat or rice).

For instance, mixing this nuruk with cooked rice and allowing it to ferment for 10 to 15 days, followed by straining the sediment, results in makgeolli (unrefined rice wine), one of Korea's representative traditional liquors.

Cheongju (refined rice wine) requires a more intensive production process.

The first step in cheongju-making is creating the base by mixing the nuruk into rice or wheat to create a base liquor.

This base is fermented with additional rice, and then more nuruk and rice are added for a secondary fermentation.

After multiple rounds of fermentation, the liquor is filtered to produce the clear cheongju. With an alcohol content ranging from 15% to 18%, cheongju is easy to drink, offering a delightful sweetness from the rice and aromas absorbed during fermentation.

Furthermore, distilling this cheongju extracts alcohol to create traditional distilled soju.

History

There are multiple theories on the origins of soju in Korea, but it is widely accepted that the distillation technique was introduced during the Goryeo Dynasty from the Yuan Dynasty (Mongol Empire).

In the 13th century, as the Yuan Dynasty sought to conquer Japan, they established temporary bases in various regions of Korea, one of which was the area now known as Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

When King Chungnyeol, a commander of the Goryeo army allied with the Yuan forces, stayed in Andong for a month, he is said to have learned the method of brewing soju from the Yuan people.

This distillation technique became one of the primary ways the residents of Andong brewed liquor.

Andong was a region home to many powerful clans.

These clans took on great power as members of the yangban (aristocracy) during the Joseon period, and as their size grew, liquor production for ancestral rites became a common sight in Andong.

As mentioned earlier, distilled soju requires a complex production process and can only produce small amounts at times, so it was usually used for rituals or to receive valued guests.

Starting in the 1990s, mass production of Andong Soju began to take shape.

Master Jo Ok-hwa, a designated intangible cultural asset of Gyeongsangbuk-do, adhered to traditional methods while producing Andong Soju.

The "Jo Ok-hwa Folk Andong Soju," produced by Master Kim Yeon-bak, who succeeded Jo Ok-hwa, became a notable example.

Additionally, Master Park Jae-seo, who uses the secret recipe of the historically significant Banam Park clan to craft "Myeongin Andong Soju," gained popularity.

Notably, Master Park Jae-seo inherited the large-scale brewing techniques of Jebiwonpyo Soju, which had made Andong Soju famous nationwide, employing modern distillation facilities and bottling equipment in the process.

ABV and Distillation

Andong Soju is traditionally made by mixing godubap (steamed glutinous rice with less water to make it less starchy) with nuruk and water to create a base, which is fermented then distilled.

The distillation process yields a strong alcohol at 45% ABV, which is then diluted with water to the desired ABV. No additional materials are used in the process.

Because the ingredients are mostly the same, what determines the characteristics of Andong Soju can be found in the production method.

Breweries use either traditional atmospheric distillation or vacuum distillation, which involves lowering the pressure to lower the boiling point.

These methods are not unique to Andong Soju, but they have been used recently to classify its flavors and fragrances.

Atmospheric distillation is distillation conducted at standard atmospheric pressure. It is the most widely used distillation technique in liquor production and is the method employed for the traditional production of soju and whisky.

The process distills alcohol with different substances that add flavoring and fragrance to the liquor. However, some fragrance may be lost or changed because distillation happens at high temperatures.

"Cho Ok Hwa Minsokju Andong Soju" by master distiller Kim Yeon-bak is made with this method.

Vacuum distillation involves lowering the pressure to lower the boiling point. It is used to distill heat-sensitive substances and preserve the fragrance of the spirit.

Spirits made with vacuum distillation tend to be gentler and cleaner in the palate and better retain the unique flavors of materials used.

Master distiller Park Jae-seo's "Myeongin Andong Soju" utilizes this method.

New Andong Soju

More recently, Andong Soju, produced with different techniques, ingredients, and flavors, has captured the attention of connoisseurs.

Two examples of the new Andong Soju are Jinmaek Soju from Menge Craft Distillery and Ellyeop Pyunjoo from Nongam Head House.

Jinmaek Soju is a wheat soju made with 100% organic wheat grown by the producer.

Wheat soju was once a mainstay of Andong's yangban families, so much so that it was featured in the cookbook Suunjapbang (A Selection of Culinary Recipes), written by Kim Yu in 1540, but its tradition was lost over time.

In some ways, Jinmaek Soju managed to revive this tradition: Though Jinmaek Soju is not the exact recreation of wheat soju recorded in Suunjapbang, the fact that the lost tradition of wheat soju is being revived is certainly a notable one.

Ellyeop Pyunjoo of Nongam Head House is also quite interesting.

Nongam Head House is a house built by Yi Hyeon-bo, a poet and a literary official during King Jungjong's reign of Joseon, as the main house of his clan.

Ellyeop Pyunjoo began in 2020 when the scion of the clan began producing the liquor according to traditional methods.

Ellyeop Pyunjoo is characterized by its stringent adherence to tradition. It only uses water, rice, and nuruk, and all processes involved in its production are done by hand.

This is the reason why you can often see nuruk being made in front of Nongam Head House.

Because Ellyeop Pyunjoo is produced in very small batches, it can be quite difficult to acquire.

Moreover, despite being a relatively new addition to Andong Soju, Ellyeop Pyunjoo has proven to be very popular among those seeking to sample Andong Soju, which is made with an unfailing dedication to traditional methods.